Epirus is the Greece that surprises people who think they know the country, a green, mountainous northwest where stone villages cling to cliffs and rivers run clear and cold instead of the usual sun-baked island sprawl. The heart of it is Zagori, a cluster of slate-roofed villages linked by old arched stone bridges, set above the Vikos Gorge, one of the deepest in the world. Families hike gentler stretches of the national parks, raft the calm upper reaches of the Voidomatis, and generally trade beach towels for walking shoes, all of it blissfully uncrowded compared with the islands.

That said, the coast is not far. Around Parga the Ionian delivers shallow, calm, sandy beaches that suit young swimmers, with a hilltop castle and boat trips along the shore for variety. The pace throughout is unhurried and authentic, traditional tavernas, mountain villages where life moves slowly, and the warm Greek hospitality without the crowds that come with it elsewhere. The accommodation runs from seaside resorts near Parga to countryside lodges and boutique hotels in the Zagori villages, many with family rooms, pools, and easy access to the outdoors. Epirus is the pick for families who want Greece's nature and character rather than its beach clubs, the kind of trip that ends up quietly being everyone's favorite.